Visiting Jordan had always been a dream of mine, lingering on my bucket list for years. Last year, I finally decided to make it a reality. The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan is bordered by Syria to the north, Iraq to the east, Saudi Arabia to the south, and Israel along with the occupied Palestinian territories of the West Bank to the west. When I shared my plans with friends, many thought it was too risky due to the ongoing conflict in the region. However, Jordan had consistently remained peaceful and uninvolved in the conflict. Determined, I asked my older son, who shares my love for travel, if he wanted to join me. Unsurprisingly, his answer was an enthusiastic yes.
Map source: World Atlas
Organizing the travel:
Since it was a mother-and-son trip, I arranged a car and accommodation through a local agency in Amman. I began by checking the Jordanian embassy’s website for accredited travel agencies and exploring various options online. I selected Jordan Tours & Travelbecause they offered diverse itineraries. After emailing them about a one-week holiday focused on Jordan’s historical and cultural highlights, Aseel promptly responded with several options.
I booked tickets on Turkish Airlines from France, which seemed the best choice as many airlines had ceased flights to the region due to the conflict.
Hurdles:
Our flight was rescheduled, disrupting our travel plans since we would arrive a day later. I emailed Aseel, who quickly adjusted the itinerary without hesitation. Then, the flight was rescheduled again, and once more, Aseel made the necessary changes without complaint. Frustrated, I canceled my Turkish Airlines flight and booked with British Airways. However, just a few days before departure, this flight was canceled as well. Panic set in since I had already paid for the accommodation and car. Thankfully, I discovered that Royal Jordanian Airlines was still operating flights to Jordan. The only catch was that I would need to travel through Spain.My husband offered to drive us to Barcelona, a five-hour journey, to make sure everything went smoothly.
Administrative formalities:
We landed later than scheduled at Queen Rania International Airport in Amman, where a representative from the tour agency was present to ensure our visa on arrival and other administrative tasks went smoothly.
Our driver, Mahmoud, was waiting to take us to our hotel, Sulaf Luxury. Mahmoud was one of the most knowledgeable drivers I’ve ever met. He informed us about our plans for the next day—visiting Jerash in the morning and Ajloun in the afternoon. He kindly accompanied us to the reception and helped with our baggage and check-in before leaving.
Itinerary:
Day 1:
After a hearty breakfast, Mahmoud picked us up from the hotel and drove us to Jerash. The journey was captivating, as I had always imagined Jordan to be an arid land. It was a pleasant surprise to see Amman and its surroundings lush and green, with hills and valleys. Mahmoud explained that Amman’s water supply comes from the underground springs of Wadi Rum, nearly 320 kilometers away. The city was bustling and traffic was heavy. Mahmoud mentioned that three out of Jordan’s six million people live in Amman. We eventually reached Jerash, also known as Gerasa, an ancient Roman city and the second most visited site in Jordan after Petra.
To reach the site, we strolled through a bustling souk, navigating the typical pressure to buy items. We ended up purchasing a few things to avoid the hassle. Our guide, Samir, a man in his seventies, shared Jerash’s fascinating history with us. We visited landmarks like Hadrian’s Arch, built to commemorate Hadrian’s visit, the main street Cardo, the oval plaza, Zeus’s Temple, the forum, and the Nymphaeum. Samir mentioned that Jerash, once a major tourist attraction, had seen a decline in visitors due to the conflict. Known as the city of columns, Jerash is home to around a thousand. He pointed out ancient chariot marks on the old route. A massive earthquake in AD 749 had caused widespread destruction, collapsing key structures and crippling the thriving economy of the time. Samir left us and we continued to explore on our own. Vendors sold Jordanian keffiyehs and intricate sand art in bottles, which was fascinating to watch. We bought a few as souvenirs. At the Hippodrome, children eagerly helped my son try on a keffiyeh. When we finished, we found Mahmoud patiently waiting to take us to lunch.
We had lunch at a restaurant called Green Valley. Before going in, we watched how bread was made. Once inside, we were served a refreshing lime and mint drink. Then came an array of mezze: salads, hummus, and mutabal, with plenty of vegetarian options. After that, the main course was mansaf, a traditional Jordanian dish made of lamb marinated in yogurt, cooked, and served with rice. My son found it absolutely delicious.
After a tasty lunch, we continued our visit to Ajloun Castle, a fortified structure built in 1184 AD to resist crusader attacks. The castle is surrounded by a trench carved out of natural rock. As we climbed up, we noticed its strategic location at a vantage point. The castle had suffered damage from two earthquakes, but a restoration project has helped rebuild the walls and other sections of the castle.
When we came out, Mahmoud was waiting to take us back to our hotel. On the way, we stopped at an olive oil pressing factory where he bought a bottle of olive oil and let us taste the freshly pressed oil—it was delicious! He then dropped us off at the hotel, where we had dinner and went to bed, feeling tired.
Day 2:
Aseel visited us and brought thoughtful gifts on behalf of the company. When I mentioned my interest in buying Dead Sea products, she arranged for Mahmud to take us to the women’s co-operative in Madaba.
At the co-operative, we bought Dead Sea products like soaps and salts and watched the fascinating art of ceramic mosaic making. The process involves finely cutting stones into smaller pieces. The artist sketches on a cloth and uses natural glue to fix the tiny ceramic pieces, with the rough side facing out and the smooth side inside. There were some breathtaking pieces, and I picked the tree of life. At the counter, I discovered that the Jordanian dinar was stronger than the Euro, so I ended up paying 280 Jordanian dinars, which is roughly 335 euros—a pretty steep price. However, the time and effort these women dedicated, along with the complexity of their work, made it worthwhile.
We planned to head straight to Petra to make it in time for our evening cooking workshop, but Mahmoud suggested a detour to Karak Castle. The drive was beautiful, passing the Dead Sea and breathtaking landscapes. Jordan is full of surprises—arid deserts suddenly turn into lush green areas growing aubergines, tomatoes, and even bananas. Before exploring the castle, we enjoyed a buffet lunch. Karak Castle, a medieval fortress with Crusader architecture, sits atop a mountain, offering a glimpse into its history when soldiers would watch for approaching enemies. Unfortunately, I couldn’t reach the castle summit due to my mobility issues, and the lack of lifts made it inaccessible. We discovered that the movie “Kingdom of Heaven” was filmed there. Located on the King’s Highway, one of the oldest continuously used roads in the world, the castle is even mentioned in the Bible, according to our driver.
Afterward, we continued to Petra, stopping briefly to see some camels along the way. We arrived at the Petra Boutique Hotel | Luxury Stay Near Petra’s Ancient City, where we would spend the night and join the cooking workshop Kitchen | Authentic Jordanian Cooking Classes in Petra . The session was fully booked with many participants. At first, we were nervous seeing the chef’s knives, but the chef was incredibly patient, teaching us how to chop vegetables. Each group was assigned different tasks to prepare various dishes for dinner. We made fattoush, tahina salata, baba ganuj, tabbouleh, galayet bandura, kofta bi tahina, and even learned how to make mana’eesh bi zaatar, a bread topped with zaatar. The chef had already prepared the lentil soup and dessert. We all sat together with our group to enjoy the feast. After dinner, my son and I headed to our room, exhausted and ready to wake up early for our visit to Petra.
Day 3:
We began the day with an early breakfast on the hotel’s rooftop, enjoying toast, eggs, and a selection of Middle Eastern delicacies. Mahmoud dropped us at the visitor’s center, where we met Omar, our guide. We passed the Djinn blocks, square rock-carved monuments, and the Obelisk Tombs, which offered fascinating insights into Nabataean culture. Omar showed us that some of the monuments had been lived in, but the residents had to move out when Petra gained fame. Then we entered the Siq, a stunning 1.2-kilometer canyon glowing pink in the sunlight. Along the way, we saw shrines to Nabataean gods and niches for Dushara, their main deity. Omar pointed out ancient terracotta pipes on the walls which were over two thousand years old, and a carving of a man’s feet and part of his camel. Finally, we arrived at the Khazneh, or Treasury, a breathtaking monument featured in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. Only the exterior is open to visitors. We continued past tombs and saw the theater, which, despite its Greco-Roman design, is distinctly Nabataean. What stood out most about Petra was the entire site, not just the Treasury, as every part had its own story. After nearly seven kilometres of walking, we left Omar and explored Little Petra, which was also intriguing.
Our next stop was Wadi Rum, a place I knew from watching Lawrence of Arabia. We had lunch at the visitor center, where I tried sage tea to calm my upset stomach, and it worked surprisingly well. Afterward, we headed to our campsite, which was essentially glamping. Later, we set off in a jeep to explore the area and catch the sunset. Our first stop was a Bedouin camp, where we were offered tea, and we saw a rock sculpted with Lawrence of Arabia’s face. We continued to see fascinating rock formations and ancient petroglyphs from the Neolithic period to the Nabataean period. All these depict the existence of people and animals since 12,000 years. Wadi Rum offered a stunning sunset, though I was a bit disappointed not to see some of its more famous formations. Back at camp, we had a huge buffet dinner, with meat cooked traditionally in a sand-covered pit. The night was chilly, and I woke up cold, only to realize too late there was a heater in the tent.
Day 4:
The next morning, we left Wadi Rum for Aqaba, feeling sad as it was our last day with Mahmoud, who would be replaced by another driver. From the beginning, he had been so kind—lending us cash until I could withdraw from an ATM, teaching my son Arabic words, worrying about my health, and always ensuring our comfort. We stopped at the Wadi Rum railway station and saw the famous train immortalized by Lawrence of Arabia. Upon reaching Aqaba, our first stop was the souk, where I bought sage, zaatar, and frankincense. I also picked up pomegranate powder, made from dried pomegranate peel and known for its medicinal properties. The souk was fascinating, reminding me of both India and Morocco. I couldn’t resist buying some pickled aubergines, a Middle Eastern specialty.
For lunch, Mahmoud treated us to a meal at Hashem’s son, where we finally experienced amazing Middle Eastern street food—ful, hummus, falafel, and bread. It was his heartfelt farewell gesture. He dropped us at our hotel, and we spent the afternoon relaxing. My son swam in the pool, and later, we went to the beach to enjoy the sea, surrounded by families and children. In the evening, we dined at the hotel restaurant.
Day 5:
Our new driver, Maher, picked us up from the hotel. He was quieter than Mahmoud and mentioned he had left Amman at 3 a.m. amid a hazy dust storm. We stopped at Aqaba Fort, a significant site in Jordan’s history, where the Arab Revolt took place in 1917. The fort, a Turkish stronghold, fell to the Arabs. After visiting the fort, we headed toward the Dead Sea, though our driver didn’t mention it would be a long drive. With no restaurants along the way, we had lunch at 4 p.m. Upon reaching the hotel, we immediately went to the beach, having been upgraded to a five-star hotel. A caddy took us to the beach, where we applied Dead Sea mud, rich in minerals. Thanks to the high salinity, we floated effortlessly on the water and later bathed to remove the mud, leaving our skin incredibly soft. Many visit this area for therapeutic benefits, as the water and salts help conditions like psoriasis and osteoarthritis. We stayed until sunset, but visibility was low due to the sandstorm. The lifeguard kindly fetched a caddy for us. Afterward, we returned to the hotel, showered, and enjoyed dinner at the restaurant.
Day 6:
Today was our last day in Jordan. We started with an early breakfast and headed to the beach, where we applied mud packs and washed them off. Afterward, we returned to our room, took a shower, and checked out. I was surprised to learn that Maher had driven from Amman instead of staying near the hotel. Our visit began at Mount Nebo, which stands about 700 meters above sea level. Mentioned in the Bible, it is the place where Moses gazed upon the Promised Land. From the summit, we enjoyed a breathtaking view of the West Bank across the Jordan River Valley. Inside the church, some of the most stunning mosaics were on display.
We visited the Saint George Church in Madaba, an early Byzantine church known for its mosaic map of the Promised Land. Although we couldn’t stay long due to restoration work, we managed to catch a glimpse of the map.
From there, we headed to Amman and stopped for a quick lunch at a branch of Hashem’s, a well-known institution in Jordan. Afterward, we continued to the Citadel, the fortified Roman city that still holds remnants of its past. The Citadel offers a 360-degree view of Amman, and we had a clear sight of the Roman theatre from there. We spent some time exploring the Citadel and visited the museum, which showcased ancient artifacts. Then, we made our way to the Roman theatre. Traffic was heavy, making it difficult for the driver to navigate easily. After our visit, we passed through the older part of the city, with shops selling gold jewelry, Rainbow Street with its cafes, and the Blue Mosque. We returned to our hotel, the same one as on the first day, and changed for dinner. Our reservations were at Tawafen Al Halwa, a fancy and lively restaurant known for its excellent Middle Eastern food. The meal was, as expected, a feast. Thankfully, Maher asked for a doggy bag to ensure the leftovers wouldn’t go to waste, which made me happy knowing someone could enjoy it later.
We went back to the hotel and then headed out to purchase bakhlavas as gifts from Zalatimo Brothers, which we heard had a great reputation.
Day 7:
This morning started off stressful since our driver hadn’t arrived yet. We called Aseel, who explained that traffic was slow due to an accident, but reassured us that someone would be waiting for us at the airport. Eventually, our driver arrived and got us to the airport, where a representative from Jordan Tours was waiting. Local authorities inspected our bags to make sure we weren’t taking mud from the Dead Sea or fossils. After that, we were guided to the check-in counter, and everything went smoothly. Leaving Jordan was bittersweet as we had met such hospitable and friendly people.
Hindsight:
If I could plan this trip again, I’d make sure to visit Bethany, the site of Christ’s baptism near the Dead Sea. I’d also spend an extra day in Amman to dive deeper into the food scene. I regret missing out on Al Quds, famous for its fresh falafels with frequently changed oil, and Hashem’s, a must-visit spot in Amman. Still, one week is never enough to truly experience a country as rich in culture as Jordan, with its endless attractions and renowned hospitality.
What to buy?:
You can purchase mosaic artwork, baklavas, Dead Sea salts, and related products. Other recommended items include zaatar, frankincense, sage, and pickled aubergine, especially if you enjoy spicy food.
Additional information:
October is an ideal time to visit Jordan, with its mild weather. Don’t forget to pack a jacket, as nights in Amman and Wadi Rum can be chilly. April is another great option, though it’s peak season, so prices will be higher. The Jordanian currency is stronger than the Euro, and I was surprised by how expensive some things were, making me wonder how locals manage. Currency exchange is easy with Western Union, other money changers, and ATMs available. We stuck to bottled water for drinking. The food is abundant and delicious, and the people are incredibly hospitable and helpful. Be ready for bargaining and light solicitation to buy souvenirs at major tourist spots like Jerash and Petra, though it’s nothing compared to other countries. Jordan’s travel and tourism services take excellent care of their guests, and if you’re lucky enough to have Aseel handle your booking, you’re guaranteed a fantastic trip. I also can’t forget Mahmoud, who warmly told us we’d always be welcome at his house if we returned. At no point during the trip did I feel unsafe or uneasy. Everywhere we went, the people were kind and accommodating. Jordan is definitely a country I’d love to revisit and explore more. It truly leaves a lasting impression on your heart.